Choosing 650c Wheels

There are at least a handful of folks who read here awaiting a report on the new (I guess it's not really "new" anymore) road bike, but I'm still not quite to a point of being able to delineate my thoughts completely in that regard. Between winter and other preoccupations, it's been challenging to have many long rides since it's arrival, but I have been able to ride enough to understand that the choice of 650c wheels was likely a good decision.

During the process of building my (second round attempt) custom road bike, there came a point at which a discussion arose regarding wheels. I'd been avoiding the conversation as best I could, but I knew it was fast approaching. I had already been reading up on wheel size and was fairly certain this would be something we'd be discussing as the build moved forward. When a person is under 5'4" or perhaps even up to 5'5", the subject of wheel size probably should be a point of conversation, particularly with a custom build, but I didn't want to address it because I believed it would be foolish to build a bike with anything other than what I had considered to be customary.

*Image found via Fine Art America

I wasn't avoiding the topic merely because I'm stubborn either. Most anyone who's shopped for non-standard size tires can relay how challenging it can be to find tires necessary for a bike that doesn't accept the size ridden by the majority of the population. When I first purchased my Rivendell with 650b wheels, it wasn't exactly easy to find tires that pleased me. There were a few options (and the choices have grown with mountain bikes being manufactured with more regularity in the 650b size as of late), but even as compared to a 26" or a 700c wheel, there were - and really still are - relatively slim pickin's.

The 650c wheel size (at least in my mind) has always been associated with triathlon bikes too. Why on earth would I need this size? I have no intention of ever competing (at least competitively) in a triathlon with this bike, so would there really be a purpose in putting smaller wheels on my bike?

When I went on a quick online hunt for 650c tires, it became apparent that there were even fewer choices than for the 650b size. Why anyone would intentionally build a bike with 650c wheels was beyond me. It seemed as though I'd be putting myself at a disadvantage. Given my experience and discussion with local bike shop employees, I just didn't want to have a debate over wheel size. It seemed much easier to hold firm to my belief that I need 700c wheels. Perhaps I shouldn't have made this sort of pre-judgement, but it's easy to do when all I wanted was to make things as easy as possible and not add to any headaches that would potentially follow a decision to go with a smaller, non-bicycle-standard wheel.

The time finally arrived for me to make a decision about the wheel size and it was highly recommended that I opt for either a 26" wheel or a 650c, though the decision was left up to me. My belief (from all that I'd been told and read over the years) is that having a smaller wheel size was going to make me slower. I'm already slow, so the thought of adding to my tortoise status was not horribly appealing. I could choose a 26" wheel, but finding a moderate width tire for a road bike seemed even more unlikely as most 26" wheels are used by mountain bikers or city-cyclists - or bike tourists.

Then, I was sent a link to this article (which I highly recommend reading if you are considering a smaller wheel size). I will admit though that even after reading it I still wasn't convinced I needed a smaller size. Toe overlap has never been a huge issue to me and I tend to take corners and turns slowly anyway, so I just had a difficult time believing that it would matter.

I know that many of my beliefs prior to the current road bike stemmed from conversations with bike shop employees. If I really stop and think about it though, of course most bike shops are going to encourage me to ride 700c wheels. I can physically ride the bikes and this size is what is generally stocked in shops, so telling me that I require smaller wheels to be comfortable and prevent potentially dangerous situations could cost the shop a sale, or if they offered to customize it would come at a price - and perhaps they've learned that providing options at an additional cost for wheels hasn't been worthwhile?

Not that I think all shops or people working for a shop are attempting to fool or trick customers though. I truly believe that 700c has become such a standard that most don't stop to think of the potential benefits of customizing for a shorter rider - or, as pointed out in the linked article, it would cost a bit extra to actually help fit a cyclist properly, so manufacturers opt instead to stick with the generally accepted 700c size.

The more conversations with the custom builder, the more I realized that wheel size would be playing a huge role in more than just how fast I could travel or availability of tires. I began to understand that the frame itself would more than likely always have sizing (or more accurately, geometry) issues for me if I insisted upon running 700c wheels. If I was going to get the top tube short enough to be comfortable (and didn't want to compromise ride quality), a smaller wheel was going to have to happen. If we proceeded forward with the intention of using 700c wheels on my custom, concessions were going to be made with the frame build itself. It may end up being fine with a 700c wheel size, or it may be the worst decision I could make during the process.

As everything was getting mapped out, I could see that I would have body position compromises, ride quality adaptations, and perhaps I'd end up in a similar situation to my first custom build. Not wanting to end up in the same boat, I decided to go with the 650c wheel size and deal with the limited availability of tires - for better or worse (a bit of this was eased as we made the decision to build the frame able to handle both 650c and 26 inch wheels with only the need to switch brake calipers).

My frame of reference with smaller wheels caused a bit of panic with this decision. The bikes I've owned with smaller wheels have always felt slower to me than those with thinner, larger tires, but I didn't take anything into account other than wheel size with these thoughts. Obviously, much more goes into the way a bike feels than simply the wheels and tires. The wheels/tires play a big part, but if the frame isn't appropriately built for the rider, it would likely be the least of my concerns.

After riding the 650c wheels and tires for a few months now (though sporadically, I'll admit with everything going on in life at the present), I am happy to report that I don't feel any slower than I did with 700c wheels on any road bike I've owned. I'm sure there are many facets coming into play beyond simply the wheels and tires, but I am still happy with the decision to go with the 650c size. I'm sure as I get myself back into a rhythm with riding, I will find that this size was the way to go.

Yes, hunting down tires is a bit of a scavenger hunt and the options are pretty limited, but I think it was the right decision to make for me. If I were going to tour with this bike, I would have gone with 26" wheels/tires, and I still have the option to use them if I choose, but because I use this bike for road rides primarily on local passages, I don't worry as much about immediate availability of tires/tubes and can keep extras on hand as needed.

As for who makes 650c tires? I've compiled a small list to help anyone who might be on the hunt. Most of the tires are made for racers, but there are options to be found.

Continental Grand Prix 4000 II (max inflation to 120psi, 650x23c)
Continental Gatorskin (max inflation to 120psi, 650x23c)
Kenda Caliente (max inflation to 125psi, 650x23c)
Kenda Kontender (This is what I'm currently running as of the post date - max inflation to 125psi, 650x25c)
Michelin Pro4 Service Course (max inflation to 115psi, 650x23c)
Panaracer Terry Tellus  (If you can find them, this is a nice option to run a slightly wider tire - max inflation to 100psi - some have stated max 110psi, 650x28c)
Serfas Urbana (max inflation to 125psi. 650x28c - a nice, slightly wider tire. These can only be purchased, as far as I know, via Rodriguez Bikes)
Vittoria Rubino Pro III (no stated max inflation, but have read reviews of others riding at 120psi, 650x23c)

If you know of other manufacturers and would like to add to the list, please let me know (either in comments or drop me an e-mail). I'm happy to edit the list as others become available.

The first time I dropped into a shop and picked up an extra 650c tube, I definitely received some odd stares. The cashier commented, "Hmm, 650c huh? Don't see people buying those too often." I just smiled. Someone must buy them or they wouldn't stock them, right? Plus, the wheel size, combined with proper geometry, seems to have made a huge difference in the ride. I do have hopes that one day it will be a bit easier to track down tires, but until then I think there's enough available to keep me on the road and happy.

I suppose more than anything, I'm learning not to be so set in my beliefs about certain things when it comes to bicycles. It's easy to get caught up in a particular item or size and not truly look at the facts in regard to the way I ride, what I ride, and so on. Is the 650c wheel for everyone? Probably not, but it's a great option to have for those of us needing smaller framed bikes and more proportionate wheels.

Light Up the Night: Wheel Lights from MonkeyLectric

With daylight growing shorter here in the northern hemisphere, I am always trying to think of ways to be more visible when riding in the dark. I have occasion at least twice a week during which I ride in the dark. Several weeks ago, I noticed that my headlight had been flickering on and off as I was riding, and while I don't use it really to see what is in front of me (I'm generally riding on fairly well-lit streets), I do use it as a means for oncoming motorized traffic to see me in the dark a little easier.

I'm still fiddling with the headlight to try and determine what has caused it to suddenly short out (the batteries have only been used a handful of times for short distances, so I don't think that's the issue), but during the interim time I was sent a package from MonkeyLectric that included their M204 wheel light.  Perfect timing, I thought. I wasn't entirely sure what to expect with this lighting system. As you can see from the photo below, it looks pretty simple, but I wasn't sure how much illumination to expect with the set up, nor how difficult it would be to install (I'm not the handiest of people, as we all know).

Package contents for the wheel light

I will freely admit that I did not install the light on my bike, but that was simply because Sam offered to do it, and I'd rather not have the frustration. BUT, it really is easy to install, just as the diagram illustrates in the instructions. The switch piece (with the on/off button) attaches to the spokes and the other piece connects to the hub with zip ties (included in the package) and then they are connected together with a small plug. The only other step is to put batteries in (before its mounted makes life much easier), which also is not overly challenging - even for me. As an FYI, batteries aren't included in the package and requires 3 AA batteries.

*Image from MonkeyLectric

Here are the details specifically for this model from MonkeyLectric:
40 Lumen Brightness
4 Full color LEDs
Great visibility at all speeds
Waterproof for use in all weather
2 year warranty
For bikes and electric bikes
Fits 16″ and larger bicycle wheels (16, 18, 20, 24, 26, 27, 28, 29, 700c)
Durable solid rubber construction
Stainless steel anti-theft strap
Hub mounted battery keeps wheel balanced
Wide angle visibility
5 themes included
Straps to spokes with vibration proof mount
Up to 60 hours runtime
3 AA battery holder works with all standard and rechargeables

Right off the bat I was truly surprised by the brightness of these lights! Plus, I love that I can change the color and the brightness level as well (coordinating lights with the holidays is always fun - particularly this time of year).

As I took off on my first night ride, I realized just how visible I was. The very first intersection I reach often has traffic turning right in front of me as I head straight through the intersection, and there just so happened to be a car approaching as I was headed through that spot. The driver definitely caught sight of me before anything even remotely scary could happen (which is not always the case).

After several rounds of rides with these lights, Sam has pointed out that they are ridiculously bright (in a good way) and a headlight may not even be necessary (I had the lights on the brightest setting, so it is possible to dim them down a bit). Perhaps I could get away without a headlight, but I prefer to have one to allow me to see at least a small distance in front of me in the darkest portions of travel.

Power /color change switch

The power switch is pretty simple. The red button above indicates the on/off portion of the lights, and the black button labeled "color" allows easy changes to the color combinations possible.

I do have two small frustrations with this particular portion of the light system. The first is that my night rides take me to a dimly lit area to park my bike and it is often a little challenging to find the button in the semi-dark. Sometimes, I hit the color button by mistake instead of the power, but it has been a minor inconvenience. If a rider always parks in bright areas, I'm sure it wouldn't be an issue.

The second (again minor) issue is that it feels slightly inconvenient to have to bend down to the hub/spoke area of the wheel to turn the system on and off. Perhaps this feels like more of an issue than it really is to me because of the not-so-well-lit area I must park my bike. I think changing the location of the buttons would require more plugs, wires, etc, and I prefer to deal with bending or stooping than having more plugs to deal with. It is something to consider though for a rider looking to purchase these lights.

I really appreciate that the power button isn't a simple push-off, but instead requires the user to hold for a few seconds and then press again. I think this makes it easier to keep from accidentally turning off while riding.

My attempts to get a decent photo riding in the dark have gone undocumented to date, but I will come back and add one at a later time if I manage to figure out how to make that happen and not look like a strange alien blur streaking across the roads in the night.

I'm interested to see how long I can ride with the same set of batteries having the light on the brightest setting. Since my night rides are kept fairly short distance, but happen frequently, generally I can make it through an entire year before needing to replace batteries for bike lights. I don't think these will last quite that long, but boy, they really are so much fun to see (and to be seen). The chart above gives a rough idea of how long the battery should last, so if it's accurate, I should be able to make it through several months without issue.

Overall, I really enjoy these lights and have used them for every night ride since they've been installed. Beyond enjoying them as a colorful addition to my bike, I appreciate that they are making me very visible - particularly to motorized traffic. I'm definitely looking forward to them this time of year, as I enjoy normally lighting up my bike for the holiday season. There are other models available, and if you reside in the U.S., you can find them here on Amazon. For those in other parts of the world, you can find links to purchase by clicking here. Perhaps this could even make a great gift for the cyclist in your life, or just maybe Santa will bring you your very own with a few subtle (or not so subtle) hints.

Roadside Un-fixable

I'm starting my bike training early this season. In the past, I've waited far too long to get going on some longer, more challenging (this is code for riding hills) rides, and I have plans in the works for this summer, so I don't want to be out of bike-shape and not be able to do what I would like.

*Image found here

The first "real" ride I went on resulted in a broken/seized rear hub. It was one of those rides that just started off horribly. I felt tired, run down, and as though my legs weren't doing what I needed them to do. I decided to take a trail to the back roads rather than navigating through the car traffic, but spots that are typically quite easy (even over the winter) were brutal. I kept asking myself what was wrong with me, but just assumed it was lack of sleep and/or lack of bike training over the prior months. When I finally reached the back roads, things were going from bad to worse. I would try to crank harder on the pedals and it felt as though the bike was fighting against me. I assumed it was because I was traveling on a slight uphill and carried on.

Finally, I'd had enough and decided to turn around. I got about a mile out from the turn around spot and my bike literally began to stop. I could hear what sounded like my saddle bag dragging on a tire, but when I felt behind me, there was plenty of room between the two. What gives? I decided to just pull off the road and take a look. As I dismounted, my bike wouldn't move - literally. I went to spin the back wheel and it wouldn't budge at all. I had a brief moment of panic, but called Sam to ask if there was something I should check... of course, he didn't answer. So, I started looking at the brakes to make sure they weren't rubbing (they weren't), the saddle bag was well above the tire (and wouldn't make it so the wheel wouldn't move at all anyway), and I couldn't see anything that would be blocking the wheel from moving.

A few minutes later, Sam returned my call and went through pretty much everything I had already checked. "I think I'm stuck out here," I finally said, "because I just can't get it to budge and I can't leave the bike here." A friend ended up coming to get me and after some finessing to attempt to cram the bike into her car, I made it home safely.

My plea for assistance was quickly answered. :O)

Later, Sam determined that the inside of the rear hub had actually bent. Apparently the skewer had come loose and was tightening itself from the opposite side. Eventually, it simply broke the hub causing the lack of movement while I was pedaling. In many ways, I felt better about the initial ride out... after all, at least it wasn't that I was so out of shape I couldn't pedal anymore (or at least that's what I'm going to tell myself). I, however, was not thrilled about a broken hub that I've only ridden on for about 400 miles (or so). I suppose these things happen though, and the replacement part is en-route, so there isn't too much to worry about (I hope) for future rides.

The lesson I learned from this is that I can't always be prepared for anything that might happen on the roads. A flat tire I can deal with, but not a broken hub. Have you had an experience out on the road that was more than you could handle with the limited tools in your bike bag? What would you do if you were in a situation that wasn't repairable on the side of the road?